Day 0 of the Narmada Parikrama: 300 kilometres to Amarkantak

Friday 16 October 2026

Yes, it's really happening: today is day 0 of the Narmada Parikrama. Right now we're in the car on our way to Amarkantak, and we've already made a few stops along the way.

The first stop was in Jabalpur, where we ate poha and jalebi (no idea what that is? Check the photos 😉). After that we obviously had to get fuel. You could have done that beforehand too… but fine. And what comes after getting fuel? Exactly, a toilet break.

The fourth stop was a lot more special: a visit to a pandit, a Hindu priest. We sat with him on the floor, and he explained things to us and gave us some items for small rituals. And I have to say: the hospitality was really great. While he was talking, fruit was put on the floor in front of us, then biscuits, sweets and so on and so on. On top of that, he reassured us: "Just do the walk your own way. You don't have to follow every ritual, you can make it your own thing too. The Narmada will show you the way." A really super chill pandit, hahaha.

Exactly what we needed, because over the past few days the family had been meddling in pretty much everything: when we should leave, how we should go, what we should and shouldn't take with us. "Ohhh, and you need this too!" While we were thinking: yeah right, no way, not interested. But you don't want to hurt anyone, so you nod sweetly: okay. Well, Yasha nodded. I didn't understand a word of it, and the translation only came once we were alone together. Then I'd start sputtering: no way! And the next day Yasha would have to go and explain again that, for example, we really weren't going to wait another five days.

Besides her uncle, who was going to drive us anyway, another man came along too. Why, I still don't get. He had walked the Narmada before and so apparently knew exactly what we should take with us and which rituals we should do. So yesterday he meddled in everything, including things I really had no need for. Not that I always understood what he was saying, hahaha. And all that valuable information? I'm still waiting for it. Luckily he was a bit quieter today and it was mostly the uncle who took charge. We were sent from left to right and dutifully followed, so as not to hurt anyone. I thought: this time I'll just go along with it.

And to be fair: Yasha's uncle is a really great guy. He did so much for us. Not always asked for, but incredibly sweet. He drove us all the way from Gotegaon to Amarkantak, a journey of about 300 kilometres over almost nothing but bad roads. Potholes, and sometimes suddenly no road at all, just gravel and sand. And on top of that he paid for everything along the way. We'll pay him back properly of course… if he gives us the chance, hahaha.

After all those kilometres we finally arrived in Amarkantak. Despite all the being pulled back and forth, we saw some beautiful things there, like a gorgeous waterfall. Except that moment was ruined again by that bloody plastic. Everywhere. I'm sick to death of it. It's so bad for the environment: it doesn't just damage nature and the animals, but the people themselves too. And if you worship a river like that, why would you pollute her so extremely?

I'm not saying it's always tidy in the Netherlands. But in the Netherlands we know what's right and wrong, and it's made clear what is and isn't allowed. If you do it anyway, you're just an antisocial… you get the idea 😉. In India it really is many times worse, honestly just too extreme. Sadly it sometimes looks like one big rubbish dump, while it could be such a beautiful country. I understand that a lot of people don't have the education, but then why is nothing being done about it? By the government, the Hindu priests or other people with standing and influence. They could easily tell people how bad this is, and above all set a good example themselves.

Sorry, I'm having a bit of a rant. It's not the country I was born in, so it's not really my place to be this critical about it. That's up to Indians themselves. But it was bothering me.

After the waterfall there was one more thing on the programme that, had I known earlier, I would happily have skipped: a visit to an apparently holy guru. I'll say no more about it.

But luckily, after that we did something I could actually enjoy: a free meal in a big tent outside in a field close to the water of the Narmada. We sat among homeless people, believers who live off donations and believers who clearly lead a wealthy life. No difference, everyone got the same plate. Everyone was welcome.

Beautiful and less beautiful: what a day full of different emotions 😅🤯. And we haven't walked a single step yet. Tomorrow the real work begins.